Fashion trends appear mysteriously each season, leaving many wondering who exactly wields the power to declare what’s “in” and what’s “out.” Is it high-end designers in their exclusive ateliers? Celebrity influencers with millions of followers? Or perhaps retail buyers making strategic decisions behind the scenes? The truth is far more intricate and fascinating than a single authority dictating our collective style choices.
The Traditional Fashion Gatekeepers
For decades, the fashion industry operated on what experts call the “Trickle Down” theory, where high-end designers and prestigious fashion houses were considered the primary arbiters of style.
Designers remain influential trend creators, using their creativity to introduce new designs and styles which appear on runways during fashion weeks around the globe. These showcases serve as platforms to introduce innovative styles to the public. Fashion designers interpret society’s needs and desires, transforming them into visually appealing garments through constant exploration and experimentation2.
Major fashion houses like Chanel, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton continue to exert significant influence due to their heritage, resources, and marketing power. They control many luxury brands that shape high-end fashion, which eventually filters down to mass market collections.
However, this traditional top-down approach is just one piece of a much larger, more dynamic puzzle.
The Commercial Filter: Fashion Buyers and Retailers
While designers may create the initial concepts, fashion buyers play a critical role in determining which trends actually reach consumers.
As one fashion student explains: “The person who is really responsible for dispersing the fashion is called The Fashion Buyer. Essentially my job will be to meet with designers and decide what trends exactly will be sold in certain cities/countries and who will be wearing what on a very, very large scale.”
Fashion buyers operate at the intersection of commerce and creativity, curating collections, predicting trends, and ensuring retailers stock products that meet customer demands while driving profitability. Their responsibilities include:
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Analyzing runway shows, trade fairs, and consumer behavior to forecast trends
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Selecting products that align with their retailer’s brand identity and target audience
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Managing inventory and budgets to maximize profitability.
As one industry professional notes: “Fashion buyers need to have their finger on the pulse – understanding these signs is crucial. It’s about being able to spot the pattern that says ‘this is what we stand for’ and turning it into a collection that flies off the racks.”
The Celebrity Effect
Celebrities have long held tremendous influence over fashion trends, sometimes creating phenomena that ripple throughout the industry.
Consider the case of Paris Hilton and Juicy Couture tracksuits in the early 2000s. What began as a publicist sending a tracksuit to Hilton evolved into a major fashion movement when she began wearing them regularly. Soon, celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears, and Mariah Carey followed suit, appearing in these tracksuits in music videos and public events.
This celebrity endorsement transformed tracksuits from athletic wear to fashion statements, influencing high-end designers to create luxurious versions for everyday wear. The phenomenon expanded our perception of tracksuits, making them acceptable for casual street wear15.
The Digital Revolution: Social Media and Influencers
Perhaps the most significant shift in fashion’s power dynamics has come from social media platforms and the rise of influencers.
Social media has democratized fashion, allowing anyone with a smartphone to participate in the global style conversation. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest have become virtual runways where personal stylists, influencers, designers, and everyday fashion enthusiasts showcase their style
With its visual focus, Instagram has emerged as a dominant force in shaping trends. According to one study, 70% of fashion brands use Instagram to promote their products. Meanwhile, TikTok’s short-form video content has enabled viral challenges and hashtag trends that can propel fashion items into the spotlight overnight.
The rise of fashion influencers has transformed the industry by empowering everyday individuals to shape trends through social media. Consumers increasingly look to influencers for inspiration and guidance rather than relying solely on traditional gatekeepers like fashion editors or runway shows.
The “Trickle Up” Theory: Street Style’s Influence
Contrasting with the traditional top-down approach is the “Trickle Up” theory, where street fashion influences high-end designers and runway collections.
Streetwear exemplifies this phenomenon. Once rooted in subculture movements associated with skateboarding, graffiti, and hip-hop, streetwear has become a dominant force that luxury designers and mainstream consumers embrace. From oversized hoodies and sneakers to graphic tees and baseball caps, streetwear has redefined fashion by breaking down barriers between casual and formal wear.
The blending of streetwear and high fashion didn’t happen overnight but has become one of the most significant shifts in the industry. Major fashion houses now regularly collaborate with streetwear brands, recognizing their cultural relevance and consumer appeal.
The Conscious Consumer: Values-Driven Fashion
Today’s consumers are increasingly voting with their wallets, demanding that fashion brands align with their values around sustainability, ethics, and inclusivity.
According to PwC’s 2024 Voice of the Consumer Survey, around 80% of global consumers are willing to pay more for sustainably produced or sourced goods. This shift in consumer behavior presents both challenges and opportunities for apparel retailers, emphasizing the need to incorporate sustainable practices.
By 2022, sustainable clothing items claimed a 4.3% share of the global fashion market, up from 2.83% in 2017—a clear indication of growing demand for eco-friendly fashion choices. Trends like circular economy models and upcycling continue to gain momentum as consumers become more environmentally conscious.
The Modern Fashion Ecosystem
Modern fashion trend-setting is best understood as an ecosystem where multiple forces interact and influence each other. As a fashion student succinctly explains:
“There are several theories about who exactly chooses what becomes ‘In’ and ‘Out’. The most common are the ‘Trickle Down’ theory, in which fashion trends come from the highest fashion designers and influentials, and the ‘Trickle Up’ theory, where street fashion trickles up into the runways, designer collections, etc. What we have in modern-day fashion is a mix of both.”
This interconnected system includes:
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Designers and fashion houses who create innovative concepts
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Fashion buyers who select which trends reach retail
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Celebrities and influencers who amplify and validate trends
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Social media platforms that democratize fashion discourse
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Consumers whose purchasing decisions ultimately determine what succeeds
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Cultural and social movements that provide context and meaning for fashion choices
Technology Shaping Tomorrow’s Trends
Looking ahead to 2025 and beyond, technology is becoming an increasingly powerful force in determining fashion trends.
AI, augmented reality, and big data transform how fashion trends emerge and spread. The 2025 Fashion Scholarship Fund Case Study Competition highlighted how digital technologies intersect with fashion, with AI-powered personalization and virtual try-ons emerging as major trends.
These technologies enable more personalized fashion experiences, allowing consumers to discover and engage with styles tailored to their preferences. One industry report notes: “Consumers expect tailored experiences that reflect their individuality and unique style. Technology like AI and data analytics are enabling customized interactions at scale.”
